Narrow streets, red tile covered roofs, the smell of roasted chestnuts, taverns and art-nouveau shops, fishermen huts, “azulejos” walls covered in clothing that hangs to dry, abrupt walkways leading to the sea, the happy “electricos” - the tram with mahogany chairs, fado - the song of sadness and nostalgia for the lost love, the prettiest light and maybe the most beautiful sidewalks in the world, this is the Portugal you don’t see in postcards, this is the place where everything has its own story. Once in Portugal you will get the feeling that it was Time and not an airplane that flew you here. The history laden streets and the guitar sounds send you back to long gone times when adventurers looking for new lands and fortune left the ports on their sailing ships. Freedom floats in the air, music sounds through open windows, women in flowers covered gardens seem to invite you in their lively colored houses. I tasted a “pasteis de nuta” in the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem. I drank Porto wine, vinho verde, ginginha, capirinha, and others that I don’t remember. In Lisbon I got my picture together with Fernando Pessoa in the I Brasileira and I got lost for hours on the narrow streets of Alfama - the old and lucky quarter that survived after the devastating earthquake in 1755. In Ericeira I got a haircut in a timeless barber shop while in Evora I saw a bizarre room decorated entirely with the bones of 5.000 dead people - Capela dos Ossos.