Seeking a geisha
Geisha (or geiko in Kyoto dialect) entertain clients in “ochaya” (tea-houses). Gion is the last remaining authentic geisha district in all of Japan. There were 800,000 Geishas back in 1920s Japan but now there are only 200 – 250 of which are registered in Kyoto. Modern geishas are still trained in the arts, playing traditional instruments, dancing and tea ceremony, flower arrangement, wearing kimono, calligraphy, conversation, alcohol serving manners and more. Spending an evening in a geisha’s company is strictly by invitation only.
Seeing “geiko” is not guaranteed and if you are successful with a sighting, it will most likely be that of a “maiko” (apprentice of geisha). The real geishas are quite elusive and even when they are being seen walking through the streets, they have a determined walk with no time to pose or chit-chat. Most of the geikos and maikos are being seen walking down the street in Kyoto are actually fellow tourists – “geisha for a day” – they have paid to be dressed as geishas.
The best time to see them is after 6 PM when they begin going out wherever it is they are going to entertain for the evening. There are no guarantees that you will see any. I had many attempts in different moments, wandering for manny hours with no spectacular result. Typically, it happened when we were not paying attention, and it happens so quickly, as if you have seen a ghost. Despite walking with small and dainty steps, they are quick and will disappear into a building or taxi before you’ve had the chance to adjust your camera settings!
At least I had the inspiration to go to a cultural show named Miyako Odori (held only in April) featuring dance performances by maikos.
Eventually I have no idea if these mysterious appearances, which I tried to capture, were real geishas or not. What really mattered to me was something else. Seeing a glimpse of geisha’s real-life as insight of mystifying culture and Japanese tradition really made my day in Kyoto. Not only was it a dream come true, but the electric atmosphere the geisha’s presence created will stay with me always.