Vedi Napoli e poi mori
Pulcinella. Spaghetti alle vongole. Limoncello. Pizza. All these were born here. Totally different from cities in Northern Italy, famous for his elegance and cleanliness, Naples has a special charm. Mega crowded neighborhoods are mixed with landscapes, immigrants from all over the world mingle with mobsters and millionaires. Just a couple of hours were all I needed to understand the meaning of the phrase that is the name of the story.
A trifle uncertain, (“take care of those cameras, the place is full of mafiosi, don’t even dream of going to the Spanish part”) we reached the door of a small B&B, where we were greeted by Eugenio our host – the most genuine Napoletano I met. First thing: he took out a map on which he dotted our way to the most wonderful pizza restaurant in the world: L’Antica da Michele.
That was how our five-day adventure started: coffee in a single sip standing, streets shadowed by immense bed sheets hanging on all balconies, statues of Jesus and Mary carved in the walls, cars with scratches the color of the cars they had collided with. This is Napoli: noisy and completely crazy. The narrow streets follow unexpected patterns. It is the bikers’ realm – in a thorough anarchy everybody rides scooters, bikes or motorbikes. Nobody observes any rule, nobody goes exactly anywhere.