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  • HOME
  • ABOUT
  • THE FAMILY ALBUM
  • ONCE UPON A TIME IN ROMANIA
    • ▸Bucharest, 1989: The days of Revolution
    • ▸I’ve also lived under communism
    • ▸Portraits of transition
    • ▸”Cabernet cu pepsi”
    • ▸Romania, 1990: Beyond the headlines
    • ▸“Mineriada” – My story
    • ▸Memorial of pain
  • WORK IN PROGRESS
    • ▸Barbershop
    • ▸Melancholic Identities
    • ▸Faces
    • ▸Fragmentary world
    • ▸Two
    • ▸Buddhist monks
    • ▸About windows and walls
    • ▸Mediterraneo
  • STORIES
    • ▸Alone, together
    • ▸Life and death in Varanasi
    • ▸Trans-Siberian – An experience of becoming
    • ▸Boxing in Havana
    • ▸Moving out of Escobar shadow
    • ▸One night at Htee Thein monastery
    • ▸Easter in Sicily – I misteri
    • ▸Easter in Sicily – La pasquetta
    • ▸Stalin’s Museum in Gori
    • ▸Havana: Between magic and decay
    • ▸Muay Thai for a day
    • ▸Cuban billboards
    • ▸Seeking a geisha
    • ▸Belfast’s murals: Behind and beyond
    • ▸Riding the Yangon’s ring train
    • ▸Bazar-Barakholka-Vernisazh
    • ▸An unexpected trip to Dhobi Ghat
    • ▸A different way to look at death
    • ▸Cannes under siege
    • ▸Inside the Guru’s kitchen
    • ▸Tibetan refugees
    • ▸The Golden Triangle: A Mecca of tribal diversity
    • ▸Bullfighting: Barbaric or art ?
    • ▸Crafts and traditions in Morroco
    • ▸Glastonbury with God
  • TRAVEL
    • Cuba
      • ▸The show must go on (part 1)
      • ▸The show must go on (part 2)
      • ▸The show must go on (part 3)
      • ▸The show must go on (part 4)
    • France
      • ▸Paris
      • ▸Paris. Again
    • Greece
      • ▸Mount Athos
      • ▸Postcards from Santorini
      • ▸Athens
      • ▸Mykonos – The picture-perfect Island
    • Germany
      • ▸Berlin
    • Vietnam
      • ▸Four days in Hanoi
      • ▸Cruising through the misty Halong Bay
    • India
      • ▸Portraits of Kashmir
      • ▸Rishikesh – Spiritual marketplace
      • ▸Life on the Sidewalk
    • Ireland
      • ▸The capital of pubs
      • ▸Ireland in ten days
    • Israel
      • ▸Israel in black & white
    • Colombia
      • ▸Colombia
      • ▸Paisas, coffee and much more
      • ▸Streets of Bogota – From Dystopia to Hope
      • ▸Life along the magical Magdalena River
      • ▸A non-touristy guide to Cartagena’s Caribbean paradise
    • Myanmar
      • ▸Min-ga-la-ba Myanmar
      • ▸Up and down on the hills of Shan State
    • Japan
      • ▸Tokyo
      • ▸Springtime in Kyoto
    • Portugal
      • ▸Life at the edge of Europe
    • Russian Federation
      • ▸The unexpected Moscow
      • ▸White Nights in St. Petersburg
    • Italy
      • ▸Rome
      • ▸Random Sicily
      • ▸Vedi Napoli e poi mori
      • ▸Venice
      • ▸Vanishing Venice
    • Morocco
      • ▸Sunset, camel rides and tea in Erg Chebi
      • ▸Medinas: Morocco’s hidden cities
      • ▸Morocco outskirts
      • ▸Djemaa El Fna encounters
      • ▸Surf and hippies
      • ▸The road of the One thousand kasbahs
      • ▸Amazigh – Berber – Free men
    • Georgia
      • ▸Postcards from Georgia
      • ▸The Many Faces of Tbilisi
    • Nepal
      • ▸Kathmandu Valley
    • Romania
      • ▸Romania to go
      • ▸Maramures
      • ▸Tara Motilor
    • Jordan
      • ▸Bedouin Trails
    • Turkey
      • ▸From Turkey with love
      • ▸Ballooning Cappadocia
      • ▸Where East meets West
      • ▸Street life, Istanbul-style
    • Mexico
      • ▸Finding Mexico City
    • Malaysia
      • ▸Transit KL
    • UK
      • ▸London
      • ▸Grab your kilt and bring your pipes
    • Sweden
      • ▸Stockholm
    • Spain
      • ▸Off-season Andalusia
    • Thailand
      • ▸Bangkok, year 2555
      • ▸Life in Pai
      • ▸Thailand
    • Laos
      • ▸Luang Prabang – The City of ultimate Zen
    • Poland
      • ▸Why I love Poland
    • Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania
      • ▸Neighbors, but not relatives
      • ▸Patarei – A little slice of Hell
    • Findland
      • ▸A sunny day in Helsinki
    • Denmark
      • ▸Copenhagen
  • SINGLES
  • CONTACT
  • MY BOOKS
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The unexpected Moscow

 

In Moscow, tears are as useless as an umbrella during a hurricane. Even smiles are almost useless. All that matters is speed. Moscow is a city for people with big dreams. For all others it’s a golden guillotine. Life is a continuous marathon, in which everyone tries to outdo themselves, hoping that one day they will wake up in an apartment on Tverskaya, owner of a fluffy cat and a foreign car.

Nothing in life is free, and that feels damn good when you’re in Moscow. The only thing left free is air.

Moscow today is many things – a political hub, a billionaire’s playground, an oil and gas boom city, a center of art and fashion – but it’s also an unintended memorial to the USSR. Each phase of the Soviet Union’s history is preserved in the city’s architecture: experiments in modernist design in the early years of the Russian Revolution, the imperial monuments of the Stalin years, drab tower blocks from the years of stagnation.

In Moscow everything has been built on a huge scale. Bigger is better. The trains are wider, the roads are not lower either, the sidewalks, the buildings are also big, even the benches are longer and wider.

I stayed in Gorky Park and I watched people. It’s easy to recognize the faces of the Russians. Some kind of candor is read on their faces, they have a mixture of childishness, in the most sympathetic forms and expressions with a rigidity almost impenetrable, unshakable. It seems that nothing moves them. On top of all this, add a melancholy air into their eyes that sometimes translates of a sadness forgotten and a little gentleness. They are full of emotions, they live a tumult that they express grandly.

Russians are used to situations where everything is unpredictable and unstable. They have to adapt to new rules and laws quickly. They had to make the long journey from the total control of Soviet times to the total uncertainty of the current situation.

 

 

 

 

The unexpected Moscow

 

In Moscow, tears are as useless as an umbrella during a hurricane. Even smiles are almost useless. All that matters is speed. Moscow is a city for people with big dreams. For all others it’s a golden guillotine. Life is a continuous marathon, in which everyone tries to outdo themselves, hoping that one day they will wake up in an apartment on Tverskaya, owner of a fluffy cat and a foreign car.

Nothing in life is free, and that feels damn good when you’re in Moscow. The only thing left free is air.

Moscow today is many things – a political hub, a billionaire’s playground, an oil and gas boom city, a center of art and fashion – but it’s also an unintended memorial to the USSR. Each phase of the Soviet Union’s history is preserved in the city’s architecture: experiments in modernist design in the early years of the Russian Revolution, the imperial monuments of the Stalin years, drab tower blocks from the years of stagnation.

In Moscow everything has been built on a huge scale. Bigger is better. The trains are wider, the roads are not lower either, the sidewalks, the buildings are also big, even the benches are longer and wider.

I stayed in Gorky Park and I watched people. It’s easy to recognize the faces of the Russians. Some kind of candor is read on their faces, they have a mixture of childishness, in the most sympathetic forms and expressions with a rigidity almost impenetrable, unshakable. It seems that nothing moves them. On top of all this, add a melancholy air into their eyes that sometimes translates of a sadness forgotten and a little gentleness. They are full of emotions, they live a tumult that they express grandly.

Russians are used to situations where everything is unpredictable and unstable. They have to adapt to new rules and laws quickly. They had to make the long journey from the total control of Soviet times to the total uncertainty of the current situation.

 

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